The surf was pretty big, it’s true, but it was messy and blown out. But this kid (he looked like a kid, anyway, a very tall one) was smiling as he walked down the beach.
I was a little incredulous. There was no one else in the water, and no other cars in the parking lot with boards on their racks.
“You think there’s anything rideable out there?” I asked.
He smiled, looked out at the water. “Maybe not for me, but it’s more a matter of getting into the water. It’s been a long time for me.”
I wished him luck.
If he actually stood up, I didn’t see him do it. He tried mightily, though.
ISO 100. 70-300 G, 100mm @ f/8, 1/640